Venice
An immersive weekend about art and food.
This week, I want celebrate the opening of Biennale di Venezia, which opens this Saturday and is about Architecture this year. Biennale is actually the main reason why I visit Venice once a year, since I’m not super charmed by the city… I recognize its unicity but my quality of life weights more than living in one of the most fascinating city in the world (I know..). However, my friend Silvia and I have this annual ritual since 4 to 5 years, we take a weekend for us and once a year we go to Venice to visit Biennale and other art sites, drink lots of Spritz Select and eat lots of cicchetti, having endless conversation about life..
Before sharing the list of my favorite places, I want to give you few advices about Venice:
TRANSPORTS: Venice cannot be reached by car and local transports are just by water, but I would suggest to avoid any water taxi or gondola, which are very expensive. It’ll be a weekend made of long walks with very comfy shoes, but when you’re very tired, you can check if a water bus can get to your destination.
STAY: I would highly recommend to look for an AirBnB, there are plenty.. Venice is full of hotels but they are very old and not always in a charming way, if you want to level up they will be very expensive, so make some research before booking anything.
VISIT: Venice is always very very crowded and I suggest to book everything in advance, restaurants (which close quite early) and any visit you would love to do. The Biennale brings many people to Venice from May to November, in addition to usual tourists, so I would visit the city between September and mid October, the weather will be nice and the Biennale crowd will be almost gone.
That said, here my list of favorite places in Venice and I would definitely start with a Bacaro tour:
Vino Vero cool wine bar with a cool vibe and crowd, I’ve always went there before dinner
Sepa lost in the middle of hundreds alleys, it’s perfect for a quick lunch but do not expect to sit, they do not have any table, just counters along the walls indoor and outdoor
Adriatico Mar with a lovely outdoor area on the canal
Dai Zemei lots lots lots of cicchetti
We had a lovely breakfast in Piazza San Marco at Caffè Florian, an historical place in the main square of the city. We went there early morning on a clear and warm day of mid October, the piazza was empty, silent and framed by a light fall fog that creates a muffled sky, it’s been really peaceful and poetic. If you prefer livelier vibe, stop for an aperitivo with live music and a square full of people.
Bar alla Tolletta has the best tramezzini in Venice to us, we’ve explored a little and it keeps winning the first place. It’s authentic and sincere, no frills or too many tourists.
If you want to reserve a table for a proper meal and a bottle of vine, do not miss:
Vini da Gigio my favorite, it’s delicious and very close to Vino Vero for a pre dinner glass of wine
Osteria La zucca very nice place and service with a lot of vegetarian options
Taverna al Remer perfect for a romantic dinner on Canal Grande
Walking around Venice will be a gift and you need to lost around its million little streets for few hours, then you would need to make a selection for your weekend visits, mine won’t include any classics:
Peggy Guggenheim House Museum my personal favorite among Guggenheim sites, the villa is elegant and feminine, while the art collection is rich and strong very impressive.
Fondazione Prada located in a 18th century palace facing Canal Grande, it’s the most disruptive exhibition site owned by Mrs Prada.
Negozio Olivetti designed by Carlo Scarpa among FAI properties, it’s a gorgeous commercial space designed in mid 50’s and an architecture masterpiece for its peculiar structure and materials selection.
Galleria Tommaso Calabro a private gallery in a beautiful palace, step in (free entrance) and check the current exhibition.
Lastly, I mention the Biennale, which is actually the main reason we visit Venezia every year, but I don’t think it would need any introduction. On a sunny day, Giardini are always my preference on Arsenale that I feel a bit too dark and claustrophobic.
xx A.
